Set in a heritage sandstone building in Haymarket, on the edge of Thai town, this is a shrine to long evenings, great drinks and big flavours. The drinks list is headlined by its vast wine list (local and European) and rare whisky selection, while the edible side of the menu is roughly French inspired but goes off in Japanese, Thai and Australian directions – the signature dish is a take on Peking duck mixed with duck à l’orange that takes six stages of cooking over several weeks to complete.